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Label manufacturing comes of age

Use of latest tech equips label makers to deliver the goods

Label is an indispensable part of a garment and has been in vogue since the 18th century. It is such a valuable addition that no garment is sold without a label. With the coming of branded garments, labels have come to play a more significant role. Sudha Swaminathan takes a look at how label manufacturing in India has evolved.

A label is an important part of a garment, spelling out not just the brand name, but also other details like size, country of origin, fibre contents among others. Today, a garment manufacturer is putting a lot of effort and money to source the right quality label. Though the concept of labels has not changed over the years, much has changed in terms of quality and technology employed.

Before the coming of advanced technology, Indian garment manufacturers used powerloom labels commonly called ‘Delhi Labels’, which were produced in Delhi and Bangalore. Early 1990s witnessed a transition from use of indigenous technology to imported technology. Needlelooms used in the early 1990s were replaced by rapier and airjet looms. With Indian label manufacturers employing advanced technology to produce labels of international standards, garment manufacturers who were importing labels are now sourcing from India.

“Earlier the manufacturers were not equipped to manufacture good quality labels and in turn we had to import labels. Now the situation has changed thanks to technology”, says Mr S Gowri Shankar, merchandiser, Rajpriya Exports, Tirupur. “It solely depends on the buyers. While some buyers nominate label manufacturers in India, certain buyers insist on imported labels,” he says. Imported labels may constitute 10 per cent of the total domestic consumption, say industry experts. “As many garment manufacturers have resorted to sourcing labels from India, the demand for woven labels has increased exponentially”, says Mr A S Nair, director, Crown Labels. The domestic hosiery industry which used to depend on Delhi labels have also started using high quality woven labels.

The technology employed by most of the label manufacturers is very superior that it allows the label manufacturers to provide samples in less than 12 hours and execute order within 24 hours. “The situation is no long of customers waiting for weeks, and now he wants to have the product in a jiffy”, quips Mr Nair.

Designing is very important in labels and all the manufacturers are equipped with computerised systems to precisely develop any design given by the garment manufacturers. The designing system and the woven technology is so advanced that any type of design can be woven. Polyester (warp and weft) labels, which gives durability and better finish are in vogue. Label manufacturers are also innovating by using nylon, lurex, trilobal, monofilament, etc.

Says Mr Amit Goyal, chairman, Confederation of Indian Apparel Exporters (CIAE), “Labels are no longer a problem for the Indian garment manufacturer and exporter. Label manufacturers are equipped to deliver just about any design and quality that the industry requires. We just tell our buyers to send the label designs and other specifications they require, and the label manufacturers deliver the goods to our satisfaction. Till some years ago, we had to import the labels from Hong Kong, but not any more. Whatever imports do take place is probably to satisfy some very special needs of the international buyers.”

The prices of the labels woven on high-tech looms are three times more than the Delhi labels. “Despite the huge difference in price, garment manufacturers prefer contemporary labels which gives good aesthetic appeal and quality”, says Mr Balbir Singh of Kailash Labels. The prices of the labels (woven) depend on the design, number of colours and type of weave. Label manufacturers are constantly innovating by introducing new weaves to attract customers. Some of the weaves in vogue are tafetta, damask, twill weave and Satin weave, zip pullers, stuffed labels, die cut and laser cut labels. High value

garments are normally accompanied with tafetta or damask weave. Though printed labels are not used by garment exporters, the domestic industry continues to use it. According to industry experts, for medium and high value garments woven labels are used and for low end garments printed labels are used. Print label manufactures use indigenous technology on imported fabrics from USA and Hong Kong. According to Mr Nair, “Tirupur, with high concentration of garment exporters will become the nucleus for woven label manufacturing.” Already there are twelve manufacturers of woven labels in Tirupur and some are on the verge of starting a woven label unit in Tirupur to increase the pace of delivery to the garment manufacturers.