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Second-hand clothing trade and benefits to African economies

For many Tunisians, a sophisticated wardrobe and a well-groomed appearance is important, and explains the relatively high expenditure on clothing. Religious and social traditions demand that new clothes are worn on certain occasions. This may partly explain the high demand for (second-hand) clothes.

Tunisians tend to buy predominantly in the souk, where the clothes are usually spread out in piles on the floor, because of low prices. The boutiques, which hardly differ in appearance from ready-to-wear shops, are frequented mainly because of the high quality merchandise.

Fashionable clothes

Fashion, and access to imported clothes, which have a high prestige value, are other aspects which make second-hand clothes appealing to the consumers. It is interesting that the relatively new establishment of the second-hand clothes boutiques appears to have contributed significantly to the greater social acceptance of second-hand clothes.

On the basis of the results of a survey conducted by TEXAID, it has been concluded that second-hand textiles, particularly in an urban environment, have gained in popularity in recent years among a large proportion of the population. The main argument proves to be the positive price/performance ratio of second-hand clothes. As in Ghana, the modest standard of living and the low purchasing power of the majority of the population is the decisive factor in Tunisia for the great popularity of second-hand clothes.

TEXAID is conscious of its social and moral responsibility in the trade with second-hand clothing and acts accordingly. In connection with the criticism about the export of second-hand clothes to Africa, TEXAID commissioned a scientific study which investigated the phenomenon of second-hand clothing in Africa in detail. For the first time, those directly affected by the issue were included in a survey.

In the national economies examined by SAD, second-hand clothes at present fulfill an extremely important function. The main reason for the important role of second-hand clothes is the low purchasing power of a large section of the population.

The accusation made by critics that second-hand clothes destroy jobs in Africa is not in any way sustainable. On the contrary. The second-hand clothing sector creates numerous jobs. A ban on the trade in second-hand clothes would have serious negative consequences for the countries which are already hit by mass unemployment. Developments in the importing countries will continue to be generally monitored, and the social compatibility of the trade in second-hand clothes will be constantly reviewed, says TEXAID.

The SAD study makes the point that projects and concepts need to be developed which take account of the low purchasing power of the population and the shortage of the factor capital, and which know how to use the already existing resources, competencies and skills in the respective countries.

Demand for textiles is high and their supply is limited. Since the second World War, items of clothing have increasingly evolved from a valuable and highly-regarded consumer item into a throw-away product. This development leads to a serious over-exploitation of resources. Every year, approximately 40 million tons of natural and synthetic textile fibres are produced worldwide. This involves an enormous expenditure of energy, pesticides and fertilisers, as well as a waste of land and resources. Humanity is being confronted with ever more drastic consequences of this wasteful use of resources. It is experiencing the ecological effects of the throwaway society.

Collectors and processors of second-hand textiles make an important contribution to environment conscious behaviour and to a sustainable use of clothes and textiles. Second-hand clothes are not waste, but a valuable raw material for the manufacture of new products. TEXAID claims to work for a responsible use of textiles and is an important link in the complex textile cycle.

Facts and figures about Ghana’s second-hand clothing trade

Surface area: 238,537 sq km

Population: 16.9 million (71 per sq km)

Population growth: 2.6 per cent

Independence: 6 March 1957

Gross domestic product: 6,086 billion US$ (1993)

Agriculture: 45 per cent

Industry: 16 per cent

Services: 39 per cent

Textile and garment industry

Since 1000 B.C:

- Import of textiles, mainly as barter material for gold and other products since 15th century:

- Evidence of cloth weaving used exclusively for ruling families and ceremonial purposes

1893:

- Import of the first wax prints so called African clot

Until 1960:

- Virtually all fabrics are imported from Europe (England, Netherlands, Switzerland).

1960 to 1970:

- Construction of seven textile factories (import substitution policy)

Employees 1975: approx 20,000 people

Today: approx 10,000 people

Capacity utilisation of the production plants:

1970: 60 per cent

1982: 10 per cent

1995: 39 per cent

Textile consumption per capita:

1977: approx. 2.95 kg

1980 : approx 1.44 kg

1997: approx. 2.50 kg

(Switzerland approx. 20 kg)

Domestic production:

Approx 8.3 million kg/ year, corresponds to a value of approximately US$ 95 million per year (average 1991 to 1993)

Import of new textiles:

Approx. US$ 37.42 million/year (average 1992 to 1994)

Second-hand clothes sector (including trade)

Since the beginning of the 19th century:

Missionaries distribute (second-hand) clothes to the converted

Since approx. 1975:

Start of fairly large imports of second-hand clothing

Imports:

Approx 20.7 million kg/year (average 1992 to 1994)

US$ 15.7 million/year

Employees (including trade): Today, at least 150,000 persons

Second-hand clothing trade in Tunisia

Surface area: 164,150 sq km

Population: 8.8 million 54 per sq km

Population growth: 2.5 per cent

Independence : 20 March 1956

Gross Domestic Product: US$ 15.8 billion (1994)

Agriculture: 15 per cent

Industry: 32 per cent

Services: 53 per cent

Textile and garment industry

After the 1st World War:

First efforts to develop a textile and garment industry

1970s:

Liberal economic policy attracts many foreign investors into the country.

Export share of the textile and garment industry in total exports:

1966: 1.71 per cent

1978: 20.28 per cent

1994: 30.00 per cent

Investment in the textile and garment sector compared to total investment in industry:

1960s: 2.1 per cent

1970s: 9.3 per cent

1989: 34.0 per cent

Employees in the textile and garment industry:

Beginning of the 1980s nearly 40,000 people

Today: approx. 200,000 people (largest industrial employer).

Second-hand clothes sector

1250:

Evidence of the first second-hand clothes market in Tunisia, steady development of the second-hand clothes markets

19th century:

European traders dominate the second-hand clothes market

20th century

Second-hand clothes are traded throughout the country in the souks

1978:

On average 29 per cent of traders in the souks trade in second-hand clothes

Development of imports of second-hand clothes

19601.8 million kg

19703.3 million kg

198011.1 million kg

199027.4 million kg

199543.5 million kg

Development of exports of second-hand clothes

1960356 kg

19701,400 kg

1980807,271 kg

19901.4 million kg

19953.5 million kg

Source: TEXAID, Switzerland