The cutting edge - II

A look at the latest apparel technologies available in the market

Ultimately, the capability will exist to programme machines with fabric-specific settings (based, for example, on KES-FB or FAST objective measurement data). Production engineering skills and developments in sensor and manipulative technology (often referred to as “pick-and-place” techniques) will lead to more obviously identifiable pockets of automation within the overall manufacturing sequence.

Sewing usually only accounts for some 10-30 per cent of an operator’s time. Handling and positioning of fabric pieces, which account for a much greater proportion of total time and effort, have therefore usually been the first areas to be tackled in the course of development of work aids and mechanisation. The conventional basic flat sewing table which still accounts for the vast majority of all workstations throughout the world has always been a machine support rather than an ideal ergonomic configuration for handling fabrics. Workstations of the future may need to incorporate adjustable surfaces which can be rapidly ‘programmed’ to suit constantly changing tasks and garment styles and will need to be better integrated with conveyor systems.

Materials handling

In order to reduce materials handling and speed the flow of work round a factory, various conveyor systems have been developed, ranging from relatively simple moving belts and manual push-pull rail systems to extremely sophisticated, computer-controlled automatic overhead conveyors. These are increasingly to be found in all areas of the factory, from cutting through sewing and finishing to warehousing and despatch. For example, one important area of current R&TD for materials handling in the cutting room is the robotic picking of cut pieces from the table and their placing onto automatic conveyor systems. Fully computer controlled transport and picking systems are already well established in modern garment warehouses. In garment assembly, the most modern Unit Production System (UPS) provide the capability to locate and track individual pieces and orders around a factory as well as re-allocate work in the light of changing resources, styles and work contents. However, they can be expensive to install and operate and there have been some spectacular and costly failures arising from attempts to introduce inappropriate systems. Overhead systems generally have large space requirements and operators do not like the physical and visual isolation which result from widely spaced work stations surrounded by ‘walls’ of garments. Supervisors also find that the line balancing and ‘debottlenecking’ capabilities of such systems are often far from ideal although this problem may reduce with the further development and integration of comprehensive CIM systems.

A growing trend towards teamwork organisation of sewing and related operations may cause some rethinking of current directions in the area of materials handling.

Pressing, Finishing

Pressing remains a labour intensive ‘craft’ skill in many areas of the clothing industry and yet has a critical impact upon the final quality and value of the garment. Current technology developments are aimed at reducing processing times while improving performance and consistency of this operation. Ergonomic redesign of workstations by leading manufacturers is leading to the introduction of microprocessor controlled suction and central control units, variable height and table configuration mechanisms.

Garment dyeing

Garment dyeing techniques have been widely practised for a number of years. In Western Europe, Italy and the UK are leading producers, largely due to the influence of Benetton and Marks & Spencer and the importance of the knitwear industries of those countries. One estimate puts the total output of the garment dyeing sector at some six per cent of all Western European apparel goods. The US market has traditionally lagged Europe in this field but is currently experiencing considerable growth. Much of the recent boost in garment dyeing came from the fashion for a ‘washed’ look in denims and faded, creased cottons; before that, demand for fashion colouration of casual knitwear was one of the major driving forces of this technique.

The garment dyeing sector is now contending with demands from other sectors of the apparel industry for rapid response service in higher quality and more technically demanding areas. There have recently been substantial improvements in the design and microprocessor control of machinery, fluid recirculation systems and the use of specialised dyestuffs and additives. Colouration response times have been brought down from upwards of 10-12 weeks using the traditional fabric dyeing route to typically 2-3 weeks by garment dyeing. However, there is still a considerable gulf between the response capabilities and economic scale of operation of even the most versatile garment dyers and the provision of individual colour choice on single articles at or near the point of sale.

Source: Gofar Synthetic Co, Korea.