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www.expresstextile.com FORTNIGHTLY INSIGHT FOR TEXTILE PROFESSIONALS
1 - 15 November 2005  
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Home - HiPerformance - Article

Conjunction function: Today’s styles marry fashion and performance

In today’s multi-functional world, women demand a lot from the products that they buy - and they make no exception for apparel

Finishes that offer consumers wrinkle-resistance and water repellency, to stain guarding and color maintenance, allow clothing to truly be put to work. Explains Norma Keyes, Cotton Incorporated director of fiber quality research, “The beauty of these garments is that they serve a dual functionality; they not only repel stains, but have properties that release soil. And wrinkle resistant shirts will certainly wear a bit smoother than regular shirts, but they will also iron easily”. She adds, “Women are incredibly busy, they work, have obligations and family commitments, and they’re interested in making things easy for themselves when it comes to caring for their garments. These finishes go a long way in helping them achieve that.” “Finishes are extremely popular,” affirms Suzie Squier, a spokesperson with the Retail Industry Leaders Association (RILA), an Arlington, Virginia-based trade organization. “Our members conduct extensive consumer research, and the bottomline is that women are looking to buy things that save them time.

The easier the care, the better it is for women. Garments treated with these finishes save time before and after wearing them, and look sharp throughout the day.” But these garments are not just about function, they can also pack a strong fashion punch. Adds Eddie Bauer spokesperson Lisa Erickson, “First and foremost, women want to feel and look good. They’re going to buy a garment for its style and if it has, say, a wrinkle-resistant finish, that’s all the better. Women want a well-cut garment with enhanced properties that ensure they’ll stay fresh in appearance all day,” she adds. Erickson notes that Eddie Bauer’s wrinkle resistant line, which features tops and bottoms, is the fastest growing segment of its women’s business. Agrees Keyes, who is recognized as a ‘fabric guru’ among her peers, “Technology has been perfected to the point where these garments don’t feel or look industrial, but have a soft and acceptable hand. A consumer gets all the benefits of a beautiful garment with the added properties of wrinkle resistance, soil protection or color enhancement. They have a great aesthetic, wear comfortably and perform. It’s a win-win.”

According to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor, the most popular functional finish is wrinkle-resistance; 54% of female respondents said that they purchased a garment with this treatment in the last year. In addition, 35% and 33% of those surveyed stated that they bought garments with water-repellency and stain-resistance/color defense, respectively, in the past 12 months. When the same consumers were asked if they would purchase an item with these finishes again, the answers were astoundingly affirmative: 94% and 92%, respectively. “Finishes definitely got their start in the casual market, but now we’re seeing the treatments in everything from ready-to-wear to uniforms to dress shirts,” states Alan Spielvogel, director of technical services for the National Cleaners Association, a trade group based in New York.

“It’s not necessarily an expensive process, so consumers can find garments treated with these finishes without paying a significant premium.” According to the Monitor, the likelihood of a female consumer purchasing a garment with wrinkle resistance increased proportionally with income. Thirty-nine per cent of female respondents with an income under $25,000 stated that they had purchased an item with this finish; those numbers increased to 56% and 66% in the $25,000 to $49,000 and over $50,000 segments, respectively.

Functional finishes can also help set a garment apart. “It often feels like there’s a sea of sameness out there, so if you can offer a product that can standout in terms of performance, like skirts with perfect pleats, permanently creased trousers, or jeans that can hold their color, it’s important to do that,” shares Stephen Hardy, a co-founder of Plan B, a New York-based apparel company.

Hardy believes this so wholeheartedly that his company has created a line of unique finishes that help their jeans maintain their original integrity.

“We’ve developed a process in our own factory that utilizes a number of artisanal finishes that not only help the denim to hold its color, but offer a beautiful sheen. You can wash them as many times as you like and they will always hold their rich hues.”

“The good news is you can care for garments [with finishes] the same as you would for others,” Spielvogel, the technical expert, asserts. “They will wrinkle less, hold off stains, and retain their original color better than untreated garments.”

Women also use a variety of products to help them achieve the longest life and best appearance from their clothing. The Monitor reports that 62% of female respondents use fabric softener, while 21% utilize spray starch on a regular basis. For maintaining whiteness and treating stains, 45% use liquid bleach, pre-wash soil removers and stain sticks. Even with a little nudge from modern technology, the art of caring for one’s clothes today appears to be a tradition handed down from generation to generation. When asked by the Monitor how they learned to do laundry, three-quarters of female respondents credited their mothers.

“Women today are still largely responsible for the laundering of the family wardrobe, so it’s no surprise that the functional finishes are marketed to them,” Squier concludes.

Functional and fashionable clothing? Now that’s the perfect conjunction.

 


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